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Adjustment

A few days ago I returned from a trip to California. Every three months we are required to leave Guatemala for at least 72 hours to have our passports stamped.

For the first two years, I complied religiously, but then learned you can pay someone to go to the Capital to get it stamped for you every other time. But still, at least twice a year I have to leave. It’s possible to go to Mexico, Belize or Nicaragua (but not Honduras or El Salvador, due to trade agreements between those countries and Guatemala) but often I choose to see family and friends in California, and usually I do some fundraising for my school while I”m there.

A new mural on one of the walls of the village from the painters' project I support.

A new mural on one of the walls of the village from the painters' project I support.

I love Guatemalan textiles, and other artistry (paintings, jewelry) so it’s pretty easy for me to spend a few days shopping in the markets around the Lake, buying these things to take to California to sell. It has taken awhile to learn what sells, and at what prices, but I usually earn enough to make it worth the effort of dragging overstuffed bags through two or three airports. These are filled with textiles on the way to California, and materials for my preschool on the way back. In California, I attend house parties, or friends fix me up with a table at a church social hour or in their office in order to sell these items as well as show a slideshow and talk about Guate. Last April we had a dinner of tamales (made by the local high school Spanish class, who also waited on the tables and played music), salad, flan, and Rosa Jamaica tea in addition to the sale. The ambience was wonderful and the evening a huge success (even at $10/plate) so I was able to buy a photocopier for the San Pablo school.

This was the first time I spent a full three weeks in California (now hot, brown and dry) and when I returned, I was once again struck by the ancient beauty of Antigua, and the amenities available there. There was a procession on the morning after my arrival, complete with the flower carpets in the streets, which occurs much more frequently than in San Pedro, and of course I can get some food items and delicacies there which are not obtainable here.

Returning to San Pedro, it was reinforced that this is really an indigenous village, despite the cellphones and increasing numbers of cars. Folks in traditional dress are everywhere, carrying large baskets of food or textiles on their heads; families sit together on doorsteps–the equivalent of a living room in their tiny dark houses–watching what passes by.

People have asked me what I miss from home.  Having just been in the joyous abundant atmosphere of my hometown, Chico, with its Goddess Temple women’s get-togethers, and rock music in the park on Friday nights, and of course all my cherished friends, I can say mostly I miss that. I have yet to be part of a group of women who like to share, act creatively, drum, and dance here in Guate. I miss the variety of foods, a hot shower that really works, and hot water in the kitchen sink. I also miss the facility of zipping around in my car to get things done (but not the cost of a car, and it’s great to walk so much.)

Because of the worsened economic climate in California, there is more sharing, more group effort to improve things than there was when I lived there just a few years ago (for instance, revitalizing family farms through the Grange system) so the contrast between California and San Pedro doesn’t seem as great as it was when I came down here to “do good works.”

But here the need is omnipresent, the challenge is significant, and there is more energy around making a difference, rather than just working or enjoying life, and that suits me well.

Something about Guatemala captures your heart; it’s hard to stay away.

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    I have heard Antigua was a very beautiful place – friends of mine were lucky enough to sail down from Belize through the Rio Dulce and end up there. Hot water in the kitchen sink made me smile – while we have it now there was about a year or so time span where we did not have it and I often wondered why would they hook up hot water in shower but not in kitchen.


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