La Vida Idealist

When I arrive at the terminal, people are calling out Bolivian city names and offering to carry my bag, hoping to sell me a ticket.  It’s fierce competition!  Any seat that goes unsold is lost revenue.

I bought my ticket earlier that afternoon, so after handing over my mochila (backback) to the bus company,  I pay to use the bathroom.

I find it odd that there is no terminal use fee in Santa Cruz.

I join a group of frustrated tired people who are waiting for the bus to arrive, which it will, but late.

Various people walk by selling canapés (yummy yuca and cheese balls), water, soda, gelatina (jello), chicken, sweets, candy and anything else you could imagine in the departure area and on the buses waiting to leave.

Once I get on the bus and waiting for it to leave, a man boards and starts playing guitar and singing a song about Jesus followed by a young boy who boards the bus to sing a song about Jesus.

Once the bus leaves, I try not to notice women breastfeeding.  I hear babies crying, cumbia and reggaetón from cellphones (which people listen to like a mini boom box without headphones) and lots of snoring.

Without air conditioning, the humid Santa Cruz air is hot, thick and sticky.  I put my arms and face out the window to grab some fresh air.  I do some writing and listen to my iPod.  I try to sleep – fitfully at best.

Fifteen minutes before we arrive in Cochabamba, someone expounds the merits of fresh fruit, quinoa and maca, all traditional Andean food.  Turns out he is a traveling salesman selling powdered maca.  After him comes another salesman selling toothbrushes and some magical toothpaste.

Finally, we arrive and I get off the bus.  I couldn’t be happier to be on solid ground again.

This was my 9-hour (well actually 11) overnight bus cama (sleeper bus) experience from Santa Cruz to Cochabamba.  This has been my typical South American bus experience, as I have had a lot of them during the past 6 months.  Seems normal to me now.

Just a small list of what to expect when traveling on buses:

• Leaving – The bus rarely leaves on time.
• Arriving – The bus rarely arrives when they say it will.
• Tickets – You can get a cheaper ticket if you ask around to the competing companies and buy the ticket at the last minute if there are empty seats left.  This works best for well-traveled routes.
• Tickets, cont’d – But remember, in 3 fila (3 seats to a row, more comfortable) buses, if you want a seat on the side where you don’t have to sit next to someone or want to sit next to your traveling companion, you may want to buy your ticket earlier.
• Seats – Check what the seats look like before you buy.  Some will say bus cama but really won’t be the seats that recline flat like a bed.  Others who are more honest will say semi cama or normal if that’s the case.
• Terminal Use Tax – Most bus stations I’ve been to have a terminal use tax that you need to pay before you leave.  There will be an attendant checking for a payment sticker.
• Bathroom – Likely there will be no bathroom or or the bathroom may be either disgusting or out of order.  Make sure to go just before you get on.
• Food – Bring food or drink to keep you going but keep in mind the above advice about the bathroom before you drink two liters of water.
• Music – Charge your MP3 player to avoid hearing snoring and crying babies.  I got through half my battery in the 11 hours but you may find yourself on a 20-24 hour bus ride.
• Stops – On long bus rides, the bus will stop for a meal for half an hour or so and for the bus driver to take a break.  I consider these safety stops – even chewing coca leaves can’t keep the bus driver awake and concentrating for hours at a time.  This is your chance to use the bathroom.
• Food on the road – People will get on and off selling stuff if the bus stops at different towns along the way.  This is a good way to try foods from different places.  (Actually I’m interested in doing a bus tour just for the food sold along the way.) But be careful if you have a weak stomach.
• Climate – It may be either be freezing or extremely hot on the bus.  Or you may be going from a hot climate to a cold one.  Prepare for both.

Enjoy the ride and of course the destination!

If you have any other suggestions or funny bus stories, please share below in the comments!

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