Concurrently in Guadalajara, the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) hosted an invite only international conference titled “Agricultural Biotechnology in Developing Countries.” Among the movement to protect native crops, many view the FAO as an operating arm of big agriculture, in this case genetically engineered seed companies.  Now that the European market is closed to genetically engineered seeds, the Latin American market is the most attractive area for expansion.

The theme of the “Transgénicos? No, Gracias.” conference was how to protect diversity: diversity of seeds, crop planting, and culture. Scientists, anthropologists and campesinos stressed how important diversity is to our collective survival, particularly in a time of increasing contamination and climatic change.

Mesoamerica (Mexico extending to the northern portion of Central America) is the genetic home to maíz where corn varieties have been evolving for thousands of years. Many consider the prospect of genetically engineered corn a threat that extends to most aspects of life.  Every year, genetically engineered corn erases thousands of years of native corn evolution.  And that means the potential loss of many types of corn: there is blue corn, black corn, white corn, yellow corn, sweet corn, and the list goes on.  There are, in fact, between 55-60 species of corn in Mexico and it serves as the basis of food, medicine, artisan projects, and more.

Transgenetic corn was first discovered in Oaxaca in 2001 and they believed the contamination came from US food aid, but it remains undetermined.  Two other sources of contamination are families based in the US sending genetically engineered seeds to Mexico and the government providing genetically engineered seeds without proper labeling. These seeds are difficult to control, identify, and contain. The looming question is, “How do you preserve this rich cultural and food diversity in the face of such an elusive opponent?”

Growing genetically modified corn was illegal in Mexico up until last year, 2009.  Now there are “experimental fields” in Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuaha, Tamaulipas, and Jalisco.  During pollination, cross contamination is extremely high, especially with corn. Many in Mexico are understandably concerned that the experiments cannot be contained.

“Sin Maíz, No Hay Pais.”  Without corn, there is no country. Here is a short video clip of a public hearing against Monsanto held in Guadalajara.

The movement to protect genetic and cultural diversity here in Mexico is impressive and moving.  Michael Pollan writes in Omnivore’s Dilemma that many people in the US have lost cultural connections to food. I originally wrote this article for writer April Davila, who is trying to live a month without consuming Monsanto related products and is finding it very challenging to access information about the origin of food, seeds, and clothes. It is often difficult to access information about where our food comes from and what it contains.  If we had deeper cultural connections to food, perhaps we would be more motivated to understand it and protect it.

If you would like to learn more about the movement to protect corn in Mexico, visit Red en Defensa del Maíz or Sin Maíz No Hay País.  For an English website, there is also the North American based organization Vía Campesina.

I am here in Guadalajara, co-directing an organization that is creating a documentary on water issues and teaching video workshops.  You can check out what we’re up to here, follow us on Facebook, and/or check us out on Twitter.

The documentary focuses on Guadalajara’s water consumption and the effects of that water use on communities located near the Río Santiago and its tributaries. Communities upstream are currently being relocated for dams to provide potable water, and communities downstream face extreme water contamination due to untreated human and industrial waste.

How do border relations come into play? Well, some of the polluting companies are large multinationals that have their headquarters in the US, and we share watersheds with Mexico. Since three members of our team are from the United States, we consider it to be an important dialogue to engage in, whenever possible. Otherwise it is the elephant in the room, unaddressed but not unobserved.

Below are some of the responses from our friends and connections in the town of Juanacatlán.

Veronica, owner of the local dulcería (sweet shop), shared with us, “I understand that in some ways we are invading the US. But we welcome all the Americans who want come here. There’s no problem with them coming here to get to know our dear Mexico, but at the same time they must become more human. We are all the same. […] We want to work and we deserve to be paid fairly, and treated fairly and be cordial. Be human, nothing more.”

Dr. Carlos, the town veterinarian who has spent years in California said, “Don’t forget about us, we welcome you as friends, please extend the same in return.” […] 99.9% of the people from Mexico who go to the US go there to work, not to cause trouble. Obama has his right hand, which is citizens of the US, but his left hand is Mexicans, since we comprise the bulk of the labor working force.”

Ismael, a bus driver who also lived in California for many years said, “They should open the borders so that way there won’t be any discrimination. Be more human, focus on something other than a big house, and a nice car.”

I don’t have a short and sweet conclusion on such a complicated and historical issue. Ignoring it or thinking we are not part of the issue is not the answer. Being from the US or other countries with higher salaries and easier travel visa access, we have the privilege to come and spend months in Latin American countries, but the reverse is not true for many Latin Americans, due to monetary or visa restrictions. Conversations are not always easy in regards to this subject, but they are so important to create a greater understanding and dialogue. The more we understand the diverse points of view, the better chance we have for positive change.

Sarah Kelly, along with Arthur Richards, is the co-founder of Adapting to Scarcity. For the latest updates, follow them along on Twitter.

I first came to Mexico as a student a few years ago, and for the last three and a half months I have been coordinating Adapting to Scarcity, a community media project focused on empowering and connecting communities adapting to water scarcity in the greater Guadalajara area.

With the help of our partner organization, the Mexican Institute of Community Development, we have navigated many interesting problems and been provided introductions to the communities we work with and the area where we live. Stay tuned for some of the amazing organizations and people we are meeting in our work.

From popsicles to language mistakes, this list covers a bit of everything. Feel free to add more advice in the comments section!

1. By far the most dangerous aspect of life in Guadalajara, and other places I have spent time in Mexico, is being a pedestrian. Here the car always wins, very rarely yields, and sidewalks are nearly always full of holes and things to trip over. As long as you are paying attention, you are golden.

2. Missing sugar and sweets? One word: paleta. They are way better than the popsicles you can find in the states. Here they make them with water or milk with all different types of real fruits. They are amazing, cheap, and can be found almost anywhere.

3. The internet is not the best way to find sweet places or often directions where you live, even if you are in D.F. or Guadalajara. Take this as a gift instead of a challenge. Talk to folks on the street and those in your neighborhood. Reach out, even if you only speak broken Spanish.

4. Eat papaya every day; it is the fruit of the gods. It will do wonders for many diverse stomach ailments. Limes are another great fruit to eat in abundance.

5. Make a copy of your tourist visa as soon as you get it.

6. Look into the exact area you are traveling in Mexico and talk to locals about where you are living and where you might travel. Do your research, exercise traveling street smarts and you will be fine.

7. A few important language mistakes to avoid: “Estoy embarazado” means “I am pregnant,” not “I am embarrassed.” “Estoy caliente” does mean “I am hot” but with sexual undertones. Be careful, or you will be truly embarrassed AND misunderstood.

8. Have an uncomfortable bed and looking for a cheap fix? Go to a tapicería. There, you can buy aglutinado (mattress foam) and pick out the size and thickness. It is a more interesting and much cheaper option.

9. Vino blanco at the bar is often tequila, not wine. Look into it and be careful how much order. Cuidado…

10. Always start speaking to people in Spanish, no matter your language ability. It is respectful and will most likely result in people being more patient and willing to take time communicating.